In 1980s South Africa during Apartheid, racist “influx control” laws made it almost impossible for black taxi drivers to earn a living. They upgraded their sedans to minibuses and worked illegally, providing vital transport for their communities. The end of Apartheid created a new problem, as the underground taxi network was replaced by a cutthroat system where corruption thrived and competition over routes turned brutally violent.
Intimidation and targeted killings became commonplace.
Deaths in the “Taxi Wars” peaked in the late 90s, but the industry remains highly dangerous. Even now, most assassinations in South Africa are related to taxi violence. And while most drivers are armed with some kind of weapon, most are just men trying to feed their families.
For the young and the bored, the taxis sometimes perform a different function, providing a confined space with a dance floor the size of a phone box where they can listen to gqom at deafening volume and take umgwinyo: a synthetic drug they use to summon the spirits of the dead.
The events, called Umqhumo (which translates as “explosion”), are held in secret locations where Durban’s humid jungle sprawl meets the Indian Ocean. Taxis line up beside one another in formation, each run by a different team that produces its own music for the night, with a dedicated MC and loyal followers. VICE rode along with Team Orange, hosted by producer Papa J and lead “party guy” Junior Mike.
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